As the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art’s enviable collection prepares to travel to Germany next year, the former empress of Iran reflects on the turbulence her country has faced in recent years—and her contribution to its cultural life

Palestinian curator’s ‘living art’ project draws on colonialism, conflict and activism

With its infamous Modern art collection, a Tehran museum has enticed international curators and struck lucrative deals with institutions in the West. But has it sparked a wider renaissance in the Tehran art scene?